Israel 2010, Part 6 (Final in this Series)

Israel, Part 6
©2101, By David Talbot
February 23, 2010

Galillee, Israel. The Galillee is a region of Northern Israel with so many sites of interest that it’s worth the effort, if you have the time, to rent a car and spend a few days in this region alone. At the time of King Herod, almost 3,000,000 people lived here in hundreds of small towns scattered around the region. We already mentioned Nazareth, one of the largest cities in the Galillee (See part 4 in this series). In this final part of the series, I’ll describe 3 other sites of interest: Capernaum, Jordan River Baptismal Site, and Bet Shean.

Capernaum. Located on the north shore of the Kinneret (Sea of Galillee), about an hour East of Haifa, Capernaum is home to Peter’s House and Jesus’ Synagogue, making this site a “Must See” for all Christian visitors. Most non-religious tour groups also visit this site for its historical significance.

The White Synagogue, built over Jesus’ Synagogue, has been partially restored here, as is the home of Peter. From Frommer’s Israel: “Capernaum was the home of perhaps four of Jesus’ other original followers; it was the place where Jesus began to gather his disciples around him...”

Although we are Jews, we found this site to be extremely interesting and a great insight into the daily life of our ancestors. Looking at the ruins of Peter’s house, you can clearly visualize how life must have been at that time. After visiting this and other sites like it, reading the bible will never be the same.

Jordan River Baptismal Site. This site is located in Teverya (Tiberius), on the Western Shore of the Kinneret. Teverya, built in 18 CE, by King Herod’s son, was an important location for Jews taking refuge here after the Second Temple was destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD. The Mishna and Jerusalem Talmud, critically important Jewish texts, were compiled here. This is also a good place to spend a few days to explore the Kinneret, Golan, and Galillee regions.

The original Baptism site for Jesus and his disciples was probably closer to the present day southern end of the Kinneret. Years ago, a dam was constructed on the Jordan River, and the flow was redirected by this location. Called Yardenit, it was established by Kibbutz Kinneret, sometime after its establishment in 1909. Christian pilgrims are able to safely immerse themselves to this day. A restaurant and gift shop where you can purchase containers of Jordan River Water, are also located here. This is a beautiful place to spend a few hours and contemplate the history of this region.

Bet Shean. Bet Shean is located about 45KM South of Teverya, and is described by Frommer’s Israel as, “A vast, Roman-Byzantine city with colonnaded streets and a theater that could house 5,000 at once…” To the east of the city, Inside Bet Shean National Park can be seen Tel Bet Shean. Tel is a Hebrew word meaning: a mound or hill created by successive layers of ruined cities. Artifacts from Egyptian, Jewish, Roman, Greek, Philistine, Turk, and Arab communities have been found Tel Bet Shean.

The main attraction for most visitors is the Bet Shean Archeological Park, which is still in development. The Cardo, or colonnaded Main Street of the city, takes you by bath houses, shops, and the Roman Theater.

The design of the city, with the main North-South street (Cardo) and secondary East-West cross street (Decumanus), is typical of Roman street design around the world. In the Old City of Jerusalem the Jewish Quarter is laid out over the Cardo.

Some final thoughts. Israel is a land of many contrasts. From Bedouins living in shacks in the desert to multi-million dollar mansions along the beach in Caesarea, the range is astounding. From ultra-religious Jewish communities in Jerusalem, to porno shops in Tel Aviv, you can see it all. From archeological digs 4,000 years old to 50 story modern condo complexes to dilapidated 70 year old hotels and pensions, there is a style and a reason for anyone and everyone to visit this country.

Israel is about the size of New Jersey. Yet there is more variety than larger countries in terms of history, geography, ancient sites, and modern marvels. You can go from the lowest spot on earth at the Dead Sea (1,200 feet below sea level), to the ski resort on Mt Hermon (summit at 6,630 feet above sea level), in less than 4hours. Walk the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem at 10:00AM, have a cup of coffee in Jaffa at Noon, eat dinner in Haifa at 6:00 PM, and be back for a night cap at your hotel in Jerusalem by 10:00PM. It is a place that many visit and few return home unchanged.

Here are some of our favorites (But do your homework, everybody’s taste is different):

1. Favorite Travel Guide: Frommer’s Israel.
2. Favorite Airline: Continental.
3. Favorite Apartment (Tel Aviv) (tiny rooms, but right on the ocean): info@telaviv-apartment.com.
4. Second Favorite Apartment (Tel Aviv) (2 blocks from the ocean): http://www.tel-aviv-rental.co.il/view_page_dyn.aspx?p=65 .
5. Favorite Beach Towns: Netanya, Caesarea, Ashkelon.
6. Favorite Hotel: Metropolitan (Tel Aviv) http://www.hotelmetropolitan.co.il.
7. Favorite Hotel (Jerusalem): Olive Tree http://www.olivetreehotel.com.
8. Favorite Market: Shuk Hacarmel (Tel Aviv).
9. Favorite Mode of Transportation: Sherut.
10.Least Favorite form of transportation: Taxi (Too Expensive, but they go everywhere).
11.Favorite Restaurant: Too many to pick a favorite.
12.Favorite Historical Sites: Old City of Jerusalem, Caesarea, Bet Shean, Masada, Ashkelon National Park, Old City of Akko.
13.Favorite Religious Sites: Old City of Jerusalem, Masada, Nazareth, Capernaum, Jordan River Baptismal Site (Tiberius).
14.Favorite way to get to Tel Aviv from the airport: Train from Terminal 3.
15.Favorite Rental Car: Budget (Tel Aviv or Jerusalem—not from the airport).
16.Favorite Mall: Dizengoff Mall (Tel Aviv).
17.Favorite Day for the Mall: Thursday and Friday mornings in building B—Food court days.
18.Must See One Time: Dead Sea (At the same time as Masada).
19.Favorite Day to Walk on The Beach: Saturday (Best for people watching).
20.Favorite Time to Eat: 10:00 to 16:00 Businessmen’s Specials at most restaurants—up to half off normal prices (Portions are huge anyway).
21.Most Over-Rated City: Daliyat-Al-Carmel Druze Village.
22.Most Over-Looked City: Ashkelon and its National Park and Historic Site.
23.Favorite Tour Sponsor: Gate 1 Travel (www.gate1travel.com)

There are many more towns, religious sites, and parks, that are left for us to explore here and that’s why we’ll keep coming back. I hope you have a chance to explore Israel some day. If you would like more information about this country and the “who, what, when, where, and how” of Israel, send me an email and I’ll be glad to share our experiences with you. Just remember it’s my opinion, so do your homework.

Shalom,

David Talbot

Israel 2010, Part 5

Israel 2010, Part 5
©2010 By David Talbot
February 16, 2010

Tel Aviv, Israel. I was planning on writing about the Galillee Region this week, but got side-tracked by a visit to Jerusalem. So, we’ll chat about the Galillee in the next report.


Jerusalem (Getting there): There are several ways to travel from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem. Taking a commercial tour is the best option for the first visit. There are lots of tours available through your hotel, the Israel Tourist Office, or online. If you have a car, Highway 1 is very good with excellent signage and gas stations at several points along the route. Another option is by train. Israeli trains are very comfortable, are reasonably priced, and run frequently between all major points in their system. Last, and the method we chose, you can go by Sherut (mini-bus).


The Sherut system in Israel is interesting, to say the least. In Tel Aviv, Sherut routes parallel the city bus system. So, from our apartment, we can take either the number 16 bus, or the number 16 Sherut, to the Central Bus Station. The big difference is that Sheruts only carry 8 to 10 passengers. When they’re full, they continue to the Central Station and only take on new fares as current passengers get off.

Another odd characteristic of the citywide Sherut system is the way you pay. Passengers get onboard and go directly to empty seats. They then tap the shoulder or arm of the person in front of them and pass the 5.80 shekels forward, similar to getting a hot dog at a ball game when you are sitting in the middle of a row. Everyone knows what to do. If possible, sit near the front of the Sherut and become a part of the cash going up to the driver and any change going back. It’s a hoot!

For inter-city transportation, you board Sheruts at the Central Bus Station in Tel Aviv. And then, you wait. Inter-city Sheruts only depart to the destination city when they’re full. If you’re going to Jerusalem or Haifa, it may take 10 minutes or less to fill. If you are going to a destination less traveled, it could take 30 minutes or more before you depart.

Arriving in Jerusalem you discover the reason why it’s better to let someone else do the driving. Streets choked with traffic, impossible parking, wide boulevards that become turning and twisting little alleys, and other drivers with more death wishes than Charles Bronson, is why we take the Sherut.

The Sherut from Tel Aviv drops you off at the Jerusalem Central Station where you take the number 1 bus directly to the Old City. In fact, it circles the Old City so the visitor can depart at the most convenient of the four entrance gates for your destination inside.

To return to Tel Aviv, simply reverse the process.

Tel Aviv to Jerusalem costs 22 Shekels each way (About $6.00) and takes about 45 minutes.


Jerusalem (The Old city): Jerusalem, Israel’s Capitol, is the premier destination for the majority of travelers to the Holy Land. Every step you take here is in the footsteps of the ancient ancestors of Jews, Christians, and Muslims.

The Old City is divided into four areas, all but one open to visitors: The Armenian Quarter (Closed), the Jewish Quarter, the Arab Quarter, and the Christian Quarter. Each area has a distinct flavor. Regardless of religious preference, each is a “Must See” at least once during any trip here.

Each quarter is a fully functioning city with apartments, shops, restaurants, schools, etc. There are Synagogues, Churches, and Mosques, ancient and modern, throughout the Old City.


The Church of the Holy Sepulcher, Via Dolorosa, Western Wall, and Dome of the Rock, are all within its walls, and open to visitors. All of these sites can be seen in one day, if that’s all you have. Alternatively, you could move here and spend a lifetime and still miss something.

On our current visit, we stuck with the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall, having visited all the Christian sites, and shopped in the Arab Quarter on prior visits.

One thing we noticed on this trip: a lack of respect for the nature of the religious sites. When visiting the Western Wall, synagogues, mosques, or churches, please dress appropriately, and conduct yourself with decorum.

Most Israel tours spend 3 to 4 days in Jerusalem, with a half- day tour of the Old City included in the package. Many package tours also offer optional extended tours of the Old City, the entire Capitol, and specific sites of interest. If you are on a package tour and have a “free” day, consider a side trip to Masada (the fortress of King Herod, and the last stronghold of the zealots) and the Dead Sea (the lowest point on earth). These two are usually combined in one full day optional tour. If you are traveling on your own, you may book these tours with the concierge desk of your hotel, or online.


If you prefer, one day trips from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, Masada, The Dead Sea, and Galillee can be arranged through the Israel Tourist office.

Next report: Galillee Region and some final thoughts.

Shalom,

David Talbot